Der Duft Monopteros and Josh Riemer unsplash picture, edit by Nicoleta
“I attempt discovering abstraction, magnificence and fantasy deep inside our vivid and difficult actuality. It conjures up and motivates me to push boundaries and create perception into tales value telling!” — Anselm Skogstad, creator of Der Duft
The concept of an outdoor risk for humanity (aliens, meteors, varied pure disasters) has some form of heroic romanticism about it, and – no less than in fiction- a silver-lining, a way of unity, and a push for collective salvation and optimistic resolve. On the other spectrum, we now have the non-climactic, slow-motion dragged down “finish of days” feeling of the pandemic and the homeopathic day by day tablet of impending doom continually numbing our senses, fogging up the colours of the times and drawing rifts between people and even ourselves (the “still-needs-a-name” BC/AD demarcation of our lives earlier than and after the pandemic). Andrew Solomon wrote in “The Noonday Demon”: “The other of despair is just not happiness, however vitality and my life, as I write this, is significant even when unhappy.” Contemplating this important “lack of vitality” this 12 months has introduced upon us, I typically discovered myself superimposing onto actuality scenes from one in every of my favourite motion pictures – Lars von Trier’s Melancholia.
nonetheless from Lars Von Trier Melancholia (2011)
In Melancholia, we watch the lifetime of Justine, separated into chapters – earlier than and after the information of the planet coming in collision with Earth. Within the “earlier than” life Justine suffers from despair, and we witness the limitless wrestle with the vacancy of on a regular basis rituals and her falling-apart relationships. Within the second a part of the film, as humanity will get nearer to doomsday, and all of the tragic parts start to unfold, Justine appears to be the one one capable of operate and be “regular” within the chaos surrounding her – as she has been making ready for the inexplicable unknown “worst” her complete life, battling despair. The worst attainable situation has now arrived, however it’s exterior, thus simpler to clarify, course of, and settle for for her, versus everybody else. Within the final scenes of the film, we see Justine, collectively together with her sister and her child, the three of them huddled in an open tepee product of branches (the “magical tunnel” the kid requested the 2 sisters to construct) with the planet, named Melancholia, that fills up the horizon, earlier than the approaching collision with Earth.
nonetheless from Lars Von Trier Melancholia 2011
Morphing a tent to a extra difficult architectural constructing – a monopteros (Historic Greek:ὁ μονόπτερος : μόνος, solely, single, alone, and τὸ πτερόν, wing) which is a wall-less round colonnade supporting a roof. Some had been devoted to gods or deified mortals (like Hercules) or served extra mundane roles as pavilions in markets or others housed tombs. These days we most frequently discover them in parks, because the gathering place of all the fashionable demigods a.ok.a. the cool children of the cities. I treasure the reminiscences of youth, freedom, lengthy talks, first heartaches, cigarette ashes, purple sunsets, within the monopteros that guarded the doorway to the park, in my hometown (if I give it some thought, the primary SMS I’ve ever acquired was (“meet me on the Rotonda”).
Monopteros in Nicolae Romanescu park, wikipedia photograph
Der Duft’s fragrances have easy messages connected to them: “every scent will create their very own story and affiliation for the individual sporting it. All of it begins with a superb sniff whereas understanding the identify of the actual fragrance”. You may say Der Duft has an artistically irreverent minimalism strategy to their advertising and marketing, however their fragrances are removed from being austere high-brow experiments.
This stripped-down, no rabbits popping out of royal hats, no props, no “particular advertising and marketing results” type of Der Duft pushed me additional the affiliation rabbit gap, to Trier’s “Dogme 95 Manifesto”- a algorithm made to create movies primarily based on the standard values of story, performing, and theme, and excluding using elaborate particular results or expertise, guidelines created as an try to “take again energy for the administrators as artists”, versus the studio.
Der Duft Monopteros bottle, picture from Der Duft Instagram @der_duft
Der Duft Monopteros is a conceptual fragrance achieved with out the over-conceptualization stiff-upper-lip aura about it. Notes are scary, I have to admit, however FUN (for it reads like a film in which you’d discover the aromatic equal of Yoda (coconut- FEAR it – I do), blended in with the digital camera works of a nature documentary (a moist cucumber observe), the fast cut-scenes of a horror (adrenalized espresso) and the classical vertigo of a Hitchcockian aldehyde.
The perfume evolution is troublesome to pinpoint, because it shifts and morphs and methods the nostril, in all its adrenalized spiced-up green-ness. It opens up with a smoked coconut accord that shortly morphs right into a bitter ristretto, then veers to an sudden moist cucumber observe, surrounded by zesty raspberry. The excessive pitched notes of the lift-off are mirrored again by aldehydic ethereal reinterpretations within the dry down, like actors sporting completely different costumes, taking their turns coming within the headlights, every one simply singled out, however all in tune with the play. I had the sensation of watching an intricate electrical panel with completely different fast observe switches in its maze, making it hum and crackle on the pores and skin. If I had been to call its style it will be a high-voltage spicy inexperienced that seems like touching a plasma globe.
Kirsten Dunst in Lars Von Trier Melancholia
Complicated? For certain!
Polarising? You guess!
But it surely works. The result’s a sheer pleasure that tingles on the pores and skin, bouncing between candy and spicy, ethereal and deep, maintaining your senses on edge and veering away from typical. It’s uncommon, free, enjoyable, and charged with vitality. Yeah, just about like a monopteros with all of the legends woven round it (each the traditional and the fashionable, city ones).
Der Duft Monopteros was launched in 2020, and the nostril is Anselm Skogstad.
Notes: Coconut, Aldehyde, Espresso, Neroli, Raspberry, Cucumber, Rose, Nutmeg, Black Pepper, Cardamom
Editor’s observe: Der Duft was bravely born within the 12 months of the pandemic and has gained ÇaFleureBon BEST DISCOVERY. Der Duft Monopteros was one in every of my high Ten of 2020. 5 fragrances launched in 2020: Satisfaction, Bubble, Grasse, Monopteros and Cinematic. Their new perfume “Act” is in collaboration with Thai perfumer Prin Lomros… coming quickly in 2021.
Nicoleta Tomsa, Editor
Disclosure: Pattern kindly offered by Der Duft, thanks a lot!
Anselm Skogstad through Instagram
Due to the generosity of Anselm Skogstad we now have a 50 ml bottle of Monopteros (120 Euros) for one registered reader within the the US, EU and UK. You have to register right here. To be eligible, please depart a remark with what sparks your curiosity primarily based on Nicoleta’s overview of Monopteros and the place you reside. Draw closes 1/25/2020
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